Wednesday, April 13, 2016

To Lichtenberg Castle!

It turns out there's a ton of stuff to see in Maastricht. With the nice weather we've been having, it's obvious that we need to spend a lot more time outside on mini-adventures.

Last weekend was gorgeous- clear skies, sunny, and warm- so we headed out to see the ruins of Lichtenberg Castle. And this time, we had a group adventure with our friend Nikky (who is also Canadian!).

Lichtenberg Castle is now owned by an environmental organization and mostly consists of a farmstead. It lies to the South of Fort Sint Pieter on the plateau. We had a view of it on our first long bike ride way back in February:


The ride started out well, the route is pretty familiar to us now:
We ride down Wycker Grachtstraat, to Plein 1992, over the Hoge Brug, around Helpoort to Begijnenstraat, alongside Monseigneur Nolenspark on Van Heylerhofflaan, to Sint Hubertuslaan. (Do you read complicated, foreign names or just skip over them? I usually just skip over them.)

This last road takes you up to Fort Sint Pieter (changing names to Luikerweg along the way) but to get to the castle ruins you turn left onto Observantenweg. This leads to a much smaller road and then turns into less of a road and more of a path.

It's a gorgeous ride. With a bit of a hill. We took a break after the first major incline at a really beautiful spot.

This is looking down the hill (they never look as big as they felt...) the way we came.


We were right in front of a wall with a little arched doorway, which turned out to be a small, open air chapel-like place.


It must be very peaceful for the people who come to use it.

 

After our short rest here, we headed up a little further, and then Nikky and I decided we were just going to walk it (Nikky had a flat back tire and I'm just weak). Michel rode up like a trooper. When the ground evened out a bit again, we took another break to have a look around. The view was nice, being up above the city once again.


And there was an entrance to the caves, just off the path and just before the hill got really steep.


We all walked up that hill. The top, though, was finally the top of the plateau so only flat ground to ride on until the castle from there (which isn't a far ride at all).

When we arrived, we noticed a lookout across from the castle entrance. It turns out it looks onto the quarry, used by a major cement company. The cement factory sits at the bottom of the hill along the river.


We spent some time admiring the view, and ran into some friends of Nikky's (I guess it really is a small city) who told us that, in 2018, the company is going to cease production and let the quarry return to being a natural spot. Hooray for giving land back to nature!

After walking into the courtyard of the castle ruins, we were immediately drawn to the remnants of the tower, and the stairs leading up to the top. This is the oldest part of the ruins, and dates back to the 15th or 16th century. The original castle was built here around 1212, but from what I've been able to find online, it's not certain that any part of that original castle remains. It's possible that the lower part of the tower is original from then, but that's not known for sure.


There are so many spots to get a nice view over the city. This one is particularly good for a view over the Maas in the South of the city.

This is the view towards Maastricht.                               And this is looking South towards Belgium. 
  

And it gives a great view of the courtyard.


This section is not part of the original castle, but might have been built on the foundations of it. All of my knowledge (since there were no tours when we went) comes from this website: http://www.castles.nl/lichtenberg-castle

After heading back down, we decided to ride back a little bit and have a sit and a snack, in a bit of a woodsy area along the path, a perfect spot for a picnic.


We decided to head a different way for the ride back; the route would take us around the large fields behind Fort Sint Pieter and then down past it. There's another lookout over the quarry that direction, so we stopped to take in the view again.


After this point, the ride is basically all down hill and man did it fly by. It felt like we were back down at the park in about 5 minutes.

There are tours of the ruins available from the end of April until the beginning of November. So we'll definitely have to go back to see more, and learn more about the ruins and the castle that once stood there.

More photos here:
https://goo.gl/photos/qfD8tNjq8tTgtfGh9

Fort Sint Pieter

Fort Sint Pieter sits at the top of a plateau here in Maastricht and is a great spot for many reasons: 1) It's a public place with a great view over the city and lots of green space you can just hang out in, 2) it's not very far from the city center at all, and 3) there are tours of the fort AND of the "caves" in the area.

I say "caves" because they're actually tunnels. Farmers began mining the limestone that the plateau is made of and they created the "caves" by doing so. And these "caves" aren't just under Fort Sint Pieter, they exist under a large area of the city. This is the website to look at if you want to explore the caves:

http://www.maastrichtunderground.nl/eng

We started out the day by riding our bikes over the Hoge Brug and almost all the way to the Fort. There's a *bit* of a hill to get up, and neither of us made the attempt to ride up, we just walked our bikes up.
This photo was taken from halfway up.

Once at the top, we immediately bought our combination tickets for both the Fort tour and the Caves tour. We had a bit of time before the tours were to start, so we wandered up another hill to the top of the plateau to take in the view. And it was a very nice day for that view.



When it was time for the Fort tour, we gathered around the sign post with many, many other people. Thankfully, they broke us into a few smaller groups to actually go on the tour with. We started with a quick history lesson from our really great guide, Sjoerd, and then headed down into the Fort.


We headed up to see where they shot from the mortar cannons


Went to the hightest point of the Fort for some nice views of the city and the grounds



Back into the fort through some more tunnels


Where the shooters did their thing and some much larger cannons.




It was a very well done tour and worth your time if you're going to be in Maastricht.

The cave tour is also something you must do if you're in Maastricht, and I'm sure we're going to go on the tours of caves in other locations around the city. But even if you end up doing a tour at the same location more than once, you're not likely to see the exact same route. The caves are very extensive and each guide walks you through a different area.

We started out by being informed that we definitely should not lose track of our group and guide; without a lantern it is completely dark in the caves. Combine that with the high humidity, cold temperatures, and lack of a clear path through the tunnels, and you end up with the very high likelihood that you won't find your way out and you'll probably die. I'm paraphrasing there, but I took that as the most important lesson about going into the caves.


The limestone walls are covered in coal paintings and drawings. These tunnels were originally dug out so that the locals could build things using the giant limestone blocks, but eventually they were used for refuge during the wars. And with that came the art.


A very interesting thing I learned about Maastricht is that the first bones of the Mosasaurus were found in these very caves.


The name "Mosa" comes from the name of the river flowing through Maastricht, the Maas (or Meuse in French).

At the end of our tour, our guide instructed us to form a line along the wall to our right and make sure we had one hand touching the wall. Then, he went ahead with his lantern until we were in complete darkness (you can choose to go with the guide and their lantern if you want) and felt our way along the wall until we found the light again. I've got to say, I'm not a fan of the dark. But when the only child on our tour decided to go ahead and do the walk in the dark, I couldn't back out. It was only a couple of minutes but the thing I noticed most was that, in the complete darkness, it really felt like I was in a teeny tiny box, even though the tunnel itself was quite large.

We emerged from the tunnels back into the beautiful, warm day. Michel and I decided to head back up to the Fort and find a spot on the grass to sit for a bit, before heading back. The view of the Fort is very nice from the back of it.






Fort Sint Pieter is definitely worth the visit; pay for both tours for sure! I don't think I've ever had a tour guide as good as either of our guides from this day.

We'll definitely head back, if only to enjoy all the green space and the views.




More photos here:

https://goo.gl/photos/GJfhjpU9J3ha2Bct8